Traditional Fish Stock

Oily fish like trout, salmon, mackerel, or herring, is very good for your health, but fish stock should be made with non-oily fish. The oils can rancidify during the long, slow cooking time required for stock. Sole or turbot is ideal, though flounder, snapper, whiting, or striped bass works well.

Fish stock is made with the bones and trimmings of the fish. Include the head for even more healthy nutrients and rich consistency. Don't be squeamish! For a more delicate flavor, just use the bones and trimmings.

In Europe and Asia you can easily get fresh whole fish at the market. It's more difficult in America, unfortunately. A good fish merchant will save the carcasses for you if you ask. He normally just throws them away, so he shouldn't charge you.

Ingredients:

3 pounds of fish frames (bones) or 1 3/4 pounds pieces (including bones)

optionally you may add one large (6 inch long or more) or two small fish heads, split lengthwise, gills removed

2 medium onions, thinly sliced

4 stalks celery, thinly sliced

2 medium carrots, thinly sliced

1 bay leaf

1/4 cup rough chopped fresh flat leafed parsley

6 springs thyme

1-2 tablespoons black peppercorns (to taste)

1/2 cup dry white wine

Sea salt

Rinse off the bones and/or fish parts. It isn't necessary to saute the vegetables, but it does add flavor. They can simply be added after reducing the stock to a simmer. For a very healthy sautee, add four or five tablespoons of stock (vegetable, fish, or even chicken) to the bottom of a 7-8 quart stockpot. Two tablespoons of olive oil will work fine, if you prefer. Bring to heat and add the onions, celery, carrots, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and peppercorns. Stir frequently to soften without browning. Add the wine and just enough water to cover by an inch. Bring to a boil and skim off any white foam. The old saying for stock making is: Keep skimming the scum till the scum don't come.

After ten minutes, reduce heat to simmer. Add the herbs and veggies now if you didn't saute them earlier. Simmer for twenty minutes, then remove from heat and let steep for ten minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer. Season lightly with salt.

The stock needs to be chilled quickly. A sink full of ice water would do nicely. Stir the stock to redistribute the heat. You can also freeze partially filled water bottles and drop them in the pot to cool the stock more quickly.

Don't be afraid to tinker with the ingredients a bit. That's true for any recipe; I hardly ever follow the directions exactly. But stocks and soups are ideal for playing around with the ingredients. You want it less peppery? Cut the amount of peppercorns. Want to add a clove of cracked garlic? Go right ahead. Keep it within healthy principles and you can't go wrong.